Nepalese government

Kathmandu, Nepal – In a significant move aimed at bolstering safety and curbing overcrowding on the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, the Nepalese government is poised to implement new regulations that will restrict climbing permits to only those mountaineers who possess prior experience of scaling peaks above 7,000 metres within Nepal. This proposed legislation, part of the Integrated Tourism Bill, has been registered in the upper house of the country’s parliament and is expected to be passed given the ruling coalition’s majority. This policy shift comes in the wake of increasing concerns over the number of fatalities and safety incidents on Everest, often attributed to the growing number of inexperienced climbers attempting the formidable ascent. The 2023 climbing season witnessed at least 12 deaths and five disappearances, a stark reminder of the inherent dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, particularly in the notorious “death zone” above 8,000 metres where oxygen levels are critically low. Under the proposed law, aspiring Everest climbers will be required to furnish documented evidence of having successfully summited at least one 7,000-metre peak located within Nepal before their application for an Everest permit can be considered. This prerequisite aims to ensure that individuals attempting to conquer Everest have already acquired essential high-altitude mountaineering skills and acclimatization experience on challenging terrain. In addition to the experience requirement, the new regulations also stipulate that the expedition leader (Sardar) and mountain guides accompanying climbing teams must be Nepali citizens. This measure is intended to promote local employment and ensure that expeditions are led by individuals with in-depth knowledge of the mountain and its specific challenges. Furthermore, a mandatory health certificate, issued by a government-approved medical institution within 30 days of the intended climb, will be required to confirm the climber’s physical fitness for the arduous undertaking. Climbers will also need to declare in advance if they intend to attempt any climbing records. The proposed changes also address the issue of permit transfers, which will no longer be allowed under the new rules. Moreover, in the event of expedition cancellations due to natural disasters or other unforeseen circumstances, the permit will remain valid for two years, but the fee will not be refunded. The cost of Everest permits is also set to increase by 36%, marking the first hike in nearly a decade. While the overarching goal of these regulations is to enhance safety and manage the increasing traffic on Everest, some international expedition operators have voiced concerns. They argue that limiting the qualifying experience to only 7,000-metre peaks within Nepal might be too restrictive. Suggestions have been made to include ascents of other renowned high-altitude mountains around the world, such as Denali in the United States or Aconcagua in Argentina, as valid prerequisites. Concerns have also been raised about the availability of a sufficient number of certified Nepali mountain guides to meet the potential demand. Despite these concerns, the Nepalese government hopes that these stricter eligibility criteria will lead to a more responsible and sustainable approach to mountaineering on Everest. By ensuring that only adequately prepared climbers attempt the summit, the aim is to reduce the risks of accidents, decrease the need for costly and perilous rescue operations, and mitigate the environmental impact on the fragile high-altitude ecosystem. The draft bill is currently under consideration in Nepal’s National Assembly, and with the ruling coalition holding a strong majority, its passage into law appears likely. If implemented, these new regulations could set a precedent for high-altitude climbing standards globally, as the world’s highest peak seeks to balance the allure of its summit with the critical need for climber safety and environmental preservation. The mountaineering community will be watching closely to see how these changes reshape the landscape of Everest expeditions in the years to come.